Shipyard visit / The process of creating a watch jacket

The monsters, which are used to work on the details of the jacket © Bateaux.com

At Tribord, Audrey Goulard, sail textile product engineer, is in charge of the Ocean 900 jacket design process. She works in collaboration with product managers, engineers, designers and stylists to design prototypes and produce the finished product.

The product development process for the 900 range began after the specifications were drawn up in October 2015. An assessment of the advantages and disadvantages of the previous model was carried out in order to launch new avenues of work

The plusses

The -

- Impermeability

- Resistance

- Complexity of the hood

- Sleeves

- Settings

- Appearance of the component

- Abrasive interior

Then comes the choice of the component, which is made via the components office, located in Lille . " We pick in our components site (product study, photo to choose the component and component selection). We can even mix them, we just have to orient our needs" indicates Audrey. In the end, two materials were chosen to make two prototypes.

After the definition of the specifications, it is then time for the functional analysis. "Priorities are mapped out with the product manager, the engineer, the designer, the pattern maker and the prototypist." explains Audrey.

The drawings
The drawings

It was then necessary to work on two different workshops: tightening the wrists and softening the inside of the collar, which tended to be too rough on the face.

Designers draw the products - or only the elements to be reworked - which are then prototyped . "They're called monsters." says Audrey. These monsters allow us to check if the element pleases and if it works. Then comes the work on the basic volume, resulting in a pattern that will then be sewn. "It's the realization of the raw product, just to see the width, the length and the fall. It's also how you check the shape: height of the collar, how many layers you'll wear underneath, how much weight you can carry, how many sleeves you can lose, agility..." says Audrey. This basic volume is then tested by typical dummies.

Watches
The different basic volumes

Patronage, Chloe's job

Patterning consists of cutting the product into pieces, in basic sizes. "For men, we start with size L and then graduate the product", explains Chloe.

Clothing patterns

Prototyping, Marie Christine Bessou's profession

After determining the volume, making the pattern, we move on to the prototype. The fabric is cut to size directly on site. It is an automatic cutting machine that makes the cuts, as there are up to 160 pieces per garment, especially sailing jackets. After 30 minutes, the jacket is cut.

Then comes the assembly through two machines, the stitcher and the sealer. "To assemble a jacket, it takes two days, counting the waterproofing." says Marie-Christine.

Marie-Christine sews together the different parts of the prototype
Marie-Christine seals the seams
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