No specific equipment, just a few chocks to lift the wheels, a few wrenches to remove them and above all a very good tube of universal grease. A can of water dispersant for the electricity is also highly recommended.
Chassis
- coupling head It is the part of junction with the towing vehicle. It is therefore a safety part (it must not let go!). This part must be well greased (but not too much). Avoid letting it drag in the dust or sand. We take the opportunity to grease all the lubrication points provided by the manufacturer (with a grease gun).
- jockey wheel To work properly, the worm that raises and lowers the wheel must be well greased. Unscrew the wheel completely to separate it into two parts.
- bolts All the bolts of the trailer (here the bolt to break the trailer before launching) must be well greased. Once unscrewed, they are soaked in the grease pot before being reassembled.
Wheels
- bearings Once the trailer is on its stands (wheel no longer touching the ground), turn it to detect "rolling" noises (low-pitched sound). By blocking the wheel, we look for lateral play, a sign of worn bearings.
- brakes On braked trailers, the linings should be watched when removing the drum. It is often a critical point subject to rust, because the wheels will sometimes bathe in water at the time of the launching. We will rub the gaskets with sandpaper (coarse grain) to remove dirt (do not hesitate to scratch them). On the drum side, degrease with acetone.
- tires Check the sidewalls of the tires for damage (curb or other). Check the sidewalls of the tires for damage (curb or other).
Electricity
- plug The socket of the towing car transmits the electricity to the trailer. This plug is often dirty and oxidized. A shot of water dispersant (type WD40) avoids false contacts.
- lights The rear lights are often corroded and need to be well cleaned. A new shot of water dispersant (WD40 type) avoids false contacts. This problem does not exist anymore on modern trailers equipped with LED lights.
