The Cotentin, a wild and amazing peninsula!
Previously separated from the rest of Normandy by a thin arm of the sea in the Douve marshes, the Cotentin is now a peninsula thanks to the water gates that regulate the entry of the sea. In winter, however, when the marshes are flooded, the Cotentin surrounded by water takes on the features of an island.
Here are a few ideas for stopovers and anchorages, tested for you!
We propose you a short one week walk between Carentan, Morsalines, Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue, Barfleur, Tatihou, Val de Saire, Saint-Marcouf islands.
To be done in any order, taking into account distances and tides of course.
In this western part of the Bay of the Seine, the seabed is generally of little importance, with sandbanks present up to 2 miles from the coast. Even if the tidal range is lower than in some points of the Channel, the tide is very important for this trip. Perfect for revising the unbeatable twelfths rule... . so come on board with us! It's worth the detour.
1.0 - Carentan
Capital of the Parc naturel régional des Marais du Cotentin et du Bessin, Carentan-les-Marais has a rich historical and cultural heritage to discover. This city has a past marked by sieges and confrontations. From the Hundred Years War to the DDay, the city was the object of many battles against the English and with the English. From the port, you are a stone's throw from the infamous Utah Beach.
But here, nature is queen! Enter the heart of the Marshland Park and observe a landscape of traditional bocage. Don't miss these sumptuous panoramas and viewpoints.
To get to Carentan, you have to take the Carentan Canal in the middle of Grand Vey Bay. Marked out day and night, it allows access to the port by avoiding the Magdalen Bank. Beware of the height of water and the current and plan a generous pilot's foot to go up this canal which crosses the marshes for almost 5 miles.
To see, to do:
1.1 - Flood gates, or tidal gates
This hydraulic technological device is very common on the Channel coast. Made of solid wood, they are located on the coastline corresponding to marshes or polders, their role is to allow the evacuation or conservation of water
Principle of operation : When the sea is low, the gates are opened under the pressure of surface water (to streams, rivers and streams) and rainwater, allowing their evacuation. When the sea rises, the gates are closed by the force of the flow, preventing sea water from penetrating the land. The aim is then to drain a wetland, prevent soil salinisation and avoid flooding. They then constitute reclamation devices. This system has no external energy input to operate, except for the energy from the sea current and the freshwater from the marshes
1.2 - The canal bridge
A rare work of art in France, it makes the Caen-Cherbourg road pass under the wet dock linking the port of Carentan and the sea. Surprising to see a truck passing under its keel..
1.3 Sites and cities related to DDAY
Utah Beach, Ste-Marie-du-Mont with the DDay Museum experience
2 - The Saint-Marcouf Islands
They form an archipelago made up of two islands: Île de Terre, an ornithological reserve, and Île du Large, on which a military fort (19th), now abandoned, was built. Access to the island is currently forbidden to the public. An association is currently working to restore the fort. It hopes in the long term to be able to visit this historic relic outside the nesting periods.
If you can't disembark there, there's nothing to prevent you from making a short stopover at anchor for a picnic between the islands..
3 - Saint-Vaast-La-Hougue
Nestled in a peaceful bay, Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue lives to the rhythm of its marina and fishing port, the main one in the Cotentin region. This small seaside resort can be admired from the top of the Vauban observation tower, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, located at the end of the peninsula. Its twin tower is not far away, on the island of Tatihou, accessible in a few minutes by amphibious boat or on foot at low tide. A pretty town that juts out into the sea like the prow of a ship, it was voted "France's favourite village" in 2019.
For boats, the floating port, with lock, is very welcoming. It places you right in the heart of the city from the outset. It is also possible to anchor in a "small harbour" to wait for the lock to open, except in fresh NE and SE winds
To see, to do:
3.1 - Tatihou Island
This small piece of land, a small pearl of granite, offers visitors, lovers of history and nature, a range of varied discoveries: thematic gardens, Vauban tower, bird reserve, museum, etc...
Paradisiac in summer with its long beach and botanical garden, Tatihou Island becomes much more enigmatic in winter
Depending on the tide, the boat that takes you there on the water, can suddenly... hoist itself on its wheels, and bring you back on land! The trip is unforgettable and the discovery of Tatihou is for many the most beautiful memory of their stay.
3.2 Oyster farming
The oldest oyster basin in Normandy, the Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue basin is known and recognized for its oysters. Raised in the open sea, the shellfish benefit from the strongest tides in Europe. At low tide, the oyster beds literally dominate the landscape and seem to be protected by the fortifications of La Hougue and Tatihou.
And of course the numerous restaurants offering fish, seafood and Normandy sauce specialities..
3.3 - The Morsalines Swamp
Situated in the heart of the Regional Natural Park of the Cotentin and Bessin marshes, this marsh is accessible by mooring in a traditional bocage landscape. A thousand landscapes make up this little corner of Normandy. Between marshes, bocage, coastline and moors, the fauna and flora develop and diversify, to the delight of nature lovers. Get out your binoculars and take a good look!
To see, to do:
Fort de la Hougue is a fortification built on Vauban's plans. Together with the fort of Tatihou, it is intended, by crossfire, to defend the bay of Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue. The Hougue Tower has been classified as a World Heritage Site since 2008, as has the similar tower on the island of Tatihou.
3.4 - And lots of small anchorages in the Saire estuary
For peace and quiet, fishing on foot, wide open spaces..
4 - Barfleur
The very moment you enter the port of Barfleur, you realize that none of the photos you saw ... are faked. The contrast between the bright colours of the boats, the sea and the warmth of the shale roofs on the small traditional granite houses is unforgettable.
Drawing its main resources from fishing - the Blonde de Barfleur is a sought-after mussel, but lobsters, crustaceans, shrimp and sea bass are just as famous. Barfleur has inspired many books that highlight the mussel trawl fishery on the "Cap à l'Amont", on the very spot where the port's natural mussel mill is located, which is also home to the oldest national sea rescue station (created in 1865).
4.0 - The port
Port of grounding, which is difficult to access in NE winds. Channel well buoyed. Grounding on hard sand bottom. Its position is ideal for the yachtsman who wishes to make short cruises to England and the Channel Islands (Alderney, Sark, Jersey, Guernsey).
To see, to do
4.1 - The Barfleur Raz
It refers to the passage off the barfleur's tip where a tidal stream powerful can, under certain circumstances, cause rough or even dangerous seas. This passage is responsible for many shipwrecks, one of the best known of which is that in 1120 of the Blanche-Nef causing the death of the heir to the throne of England, Guillaume Adelin .
A first lighthouse, the gatteville lighthouse is built on the tip of Barfleur to signal to the navigator. In 1865 one of the first rescue stations in France is located in Barfleur to rescue the victims of the Raz
4.2 - Gatteville lighthouse
Located at the tip of Barfleur, it is the 2nd highest lighthouse in Europe. After climbing up a staircase of 365 steps lit by 52 windows, visitors can admire the magnificent panorama of the Val de Saire and the English Channel.
